Then, on Wednesday, if you’re not totally stressed by all the cooking, the endless weeknight responsibility of it, you might make three-cup vegetables with rice. But if you are stressed, if it’s all just Too Much here at the end of this horrible, no-good year, I absolve you: Get the best pizza you can and eat it on the couch watching whatever it is you want to be watching. (For me, this week, that’s “Deadliest Catch.”)
Thursday night’s New Year’s Eve, of course, and we’ll all be glad to end this year, even if we won’t or shouldn’t be doing so in a crowd of strangers (or even friends!). Which is anyway a great excuse to make and savor a caviar sandwich, if you’re in a position to do so: “All at once a little messy and a little decadent and a little modest,” is how Gabrielle Hamilton described it in The Times back in 2018. “As my father would cheerfully say, ‘Diamonds and burlap!’ ”
And then on Friday, Gabrielle again, maybe, with a fabulous and idiosyncratic steak tartare to serve with pommes Anna. On the steak recipe, you may have some questions. Gabrielle has answers: “The butter and the Vegemite are personal eccentricities I happen to find exceptionally delicious, and I reason that if you are already into Worcestershire sauce, then the intense umami of the Vegemite is not such a reach for your palate.” (Is that a hard no? Try these fish tacos instead.)
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Now, it’s nothing to do with chirashi or beignets, but The Times asked 22 interesting people what books President-elect Joe Biden should read. The answers are fascinating.
Have you watched “Taste the Nation” with Padma Lakshmi yet? It’s a joy.
Finally, the jazz pianist Stanley Cowell died last week at 79. Here’s his “Departure,” composed in 1958 during the summer between his high school graduation and his matriculation at Oberlin College. Listen to that, and I’ll be back on Monday.